God Bless Chris Brown
A Surfing Legend and Legendary Human
My favorite memory of Chris Brown is when I was filming for The Kill 2 and he would let me ride with him to Jalama. He had a black acura and he drove the Jalama road like it was the indy 500. I was white knuckle the whole way in the back crunched inbetween his majic channel islands al merrrick shaped surfboards. I had my video camera and I was making a movie with one of my favorite surfers in the world. It was so fun. Then we would get to Jalama and he was on the top of his game. Nobody surfed as good as him. his turns, his speed, his style --- it was amazing to capture. He was so fucking cool. He could have been a total dick but he was the oppisite. He was nice to me when he didn't have to be like that. I was just a lame dork and I felt like I got to hang out with the fonz of surfing! He was everything I wasn't. He was such a hero to me.
Then I got to know him even better and I took pictures of him teaching his daughter to surf when she was about 10 years old. When I gave him the photos he was so proud of her. He was an amazing loving father and my thoughts and prayers go to his wonderful daughter who has already acomplished so much in her life and has grown into an amazing human. When Chris was teaching his daughter he was prouder and happier then winning any surf contest or getting any surf contract. He really was an amazing person and anyone who ever got to meet him was really lucky.
Chris your smile will never leave me and your kindness and humility.
Tears of joy for your life and tears of sorrow for the too early loss of you. I hope your surfing in heaven with Barney! Love to your family and you Chris